![]() ![]() With softwood, you can drill right through, with hardwood decking, you really have to pre-drill. And so the question is "If you use brazilian hardwood over a regular common softwood frame substructure how do you screw into that? How do you secure the base of the anchor through those deck boards and is it a little different than when you're on a treated pine or a cedar deck?" And the answer is yes. They are so dense that sometimes they don't even float, they really are like nature's steel. There's a bunch and one thing that's very characteristic of them is it is that they are incredibly dense. You're probably familiar with these hardwoods, they go by names like Cumaru, Ipe, Tigerwood, Kayu. Hey, just received an email from Mike and Mike is asking today how to use the Titan Post Anchor, how to secure that onto a deck when the decking is a Brazilian hardwood. What you wanna do is pre-drill either a complete hole through that top deck board and then allowing the threads to pass through without contacting the wood and then straight into the blocking below.Ĭheck out this video for more information: With hardwood decking, you're going to have to pre-drill. Or, if the warping is due to two peices butted up together (all decking requires a gap for expansion) run a circular saw on the seam, the blade will take 1/8” and relieve any pressure.Can the titan post anchor be used on-top of composite deck boards the same way it is installed on wood decking? I will be installing a Timbertech deck and would like to know if the post anchors can side directly on the composite deck with the anchor bolts penetrating through the composite deck to the joists and added support structure underneath to pick up the anchor points. You could probably fix it easily by removing fasteners, drilling oversized holes, then reinstalling fasteners. Some brands require you predrill an oversized hole to allow the Fascia to expand/contract like vinyl siding. Should be fasteners on top and bottom, every 12-18ish inches. ![]() hope I made sense.īut if it’s warping, that’s not related to the above. There is Probably a better way to explain it. Trade off is you have color matched screws or plugs all around the perimeter. But If you cap the fascia with the decking, you can hose/sweep it much easier. Most installers cover the vertical fascia with the horizontal decking so that it’s easier to clean… the “by the book” method traps dirt and leafs. Covers up the outside groved board instead of using a solid board for the perimeter. I think it depends what part of the county you are in, but that’s actually how it’s done “by the book”. I'll add that Spiced Rum was the Trex color we chose, and it was VERY hot with the sample in the sun.Īs a bonus, we were able to get non-grooved boards and use Azeks installation system (tool that puts the screws into the side of the board at an angle so you can't see them and spaces the boards). It will be apparent quickly which combo is for you heat wise. ![]() We grabbed samples or different colors/brands and put them out where the deck would go. Deck is in direct sun in the morning, and we can walk barefoot without issue. ![]() It's much cooler than Trex in darker colors (we have American Walnut). It's similar in weight to Trex (heavy) and was only slightly more $$. Trex is a composite of resin and wood fiber, while Azek (at least what we purchased) is 100% plastic with no wood. Some of that had to do with color availability as well, but we are really happy with the choice. We did a lot of research, and ended up going with Azek decking instead of Trex last summer. ![]()
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